Black Castor Oil: The Complete Guide

What it is

Castor oil has been used for hair and skin since antiquity. The black version is made by roasting the castor beans before pressing, the same way you would roast coffee. The deeper the roast, the darker the oil. It is very thick, rich and protective.

Let's be clear about one thing: castor oil doesn't grow hair. It conditions and protects the hair and the follicles you already have, so strands break less and brows, lashes and hair look fuller over time. Consistency matters more than quantity: give it 6-8 weeks of regular use.

Where it comes from

Our castor beans are hand-picked on small farms south of Aswan in Upper Egypt, along the Nile. The beans are roasted, then cold-pressed without added heat by Amr, our oil maker, and his team, and bottled in hand-blown glass.

How to use it

Overnight hair and scalp treatment (once a week)

1. Warm the oil. Pour 2-3 tablespoons into a glass and stand it in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes. Don't microwave it.
2. Dampen the roots. Mist your scalp lightly with warm water.
3. Apply to roots and scalp. Use a masque brush or your fingertips, section by section, like applying hair color. Massage for a minute or two.
4. Wrap and rest. Cover with a shower cap and put a towel on your pillow. Leave overnight.
5. Wash out. Shampoo twice in the morning and condition as usual. A drop of Henna or Hoba on the ends adds shine.

Brows and lashes (nightly)

Clean, dry brows and lashes. With the olivewood applicator or a clean spoolie, apply a thin coat to brows. For lashes, apply a tiny amount to the base of the upper lashes only, like eyeliner, keeping it out of the eye itself. Less is more.

Skin: deep oil cleanse

Mix 1 part castor with 2-3 parts Hoba. Massage over dry skin for a minute, then hold a hot, damp cloth over your face and wipe away. Follow with Roseau and a drop of Hoba.

The chemistry

Castor oil is defined by one fatty acid, ricinoleic acid, which makes up the great majority of the oil. It is what makes castor so thick and so good at coating and protecting hair.

Typical values for cold-pressed castor oil from published analyses.

Who it's for

• Over-plucked brows and lashes worn down by extensions, curlers and mascara.
• Dry, brittle or chemically treated hair.
• Thick, curly and textured hair, and dry, flaky-feeling scalps.
• Beards that feel coarse and dry.

For professionals

Brow and lash artists recommend castor as an aftercare and "rehab" step between services. It also adds sheen and hold to laminated brows. Send clients home with the Brows, Lashes & All Things Hair Kit and the olivewood applicator.

Storage and shelf life

Castor is very stable, with a 2-year shelf life. Keep it closed and out of direct sun; for the freshest oil, enjoy it within 3-6 months of receiving it. In the cold it becomes even thicker; warm the bottle in your hands before use.

Safety

Castor beans contain a toxin called ricin, but it stays in the bean and does not carry into the pressed oil. The oil looks a lot like syrup, so keep it well away from children, and never swallow it. If you get oil in your eyes, rinse with plenty of lukewarm water.

For external use only. Patch test any new product: apply a little to your inner forearm once a day for two days. If you notice redness, itching or swelling, rinse with cool water and stop using it. Keep out of reach of children. If you are pregnant, nursing or under a doctor's care, check with your doctor first.

Questions